2025 Holland America Line Pole to Pole Voyage Blog
Pole to Pole Update 6
Day 57 through 74 – Brazil, Including Our Amazon Experience
The past couple of weeks have marked the end of our Brazilian port visits and included a remarkable journey up the Amazon River!
Below are the ports we visited, along with some highlights and photos taken by us and others in our group, capturing the unique charm of each location.
Without a doubt, our time on the Amazon River was a highlight of the journey. It’s difficult to fully capture the awe of experiencing such an important and diverse region, but we hope to share a sense of its wonder through our words and photos.
We concluded Day 74 with a visit to the infamous Devil’s Island.
In the coming days, we’ll cross the Atlantic and begin our journey through new destinations including the Cape Verde Islands (off the coast of West Africa), Banjul (Gambia), Dakar (Senegal), the Canary Islands, Casablanca (Morocco), and Gibraltar (a British Overseas Territory).
We look forward to sharing more adventures with you in our next update!
Salvador, Brazil
Salvador, with a population of 2.4 million, once Brazil’s first colonial capital, is known for its vibrant Afro-Brazilian culture, colorful colonial architecture, and lively music scene. The historic center, Pelourinho, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with cobblestone streets and brightly painted buildings.
We learned that Salvador’s Carnival is one of the largest street festivals in the world, filled with energetic music, dancing, and parades. The city’s cuisine is equally bold, blending African and Brazilian flavors—moqueca (seafood stew) and acarajé (fried black-eyed pea fritters) are must-tries.
The city also features landmarks like the Elevador Lacerda, a towering elevator connecting the upper and lower parts of the city, and stunning views over All Saints Bay.
The main stadium in Salvador, Casa de Apostas Arena Fonte Nova. Also known as Complexo Esportivo Cultural Professor Octavio Mangabeira. It has a capacity of 47, 915 people.
One of many vendors you’ll see walking around Salvador
Maceió, Brazil
Maceió, the capital of the state of Alagoas, is known for its turquoise waters, palm-lined beaches, and natural pools formed by coral reefs. It’s a favorite coastal destination among Brazilians for its laid-back vibe and postcard-worthy scenery.
One of the standout features is the Pajuçara Beach area, where colorful sailboats called jangadas ferry visitors to the offshore pools during low tide.
The city also has a strong cultural heritage influenced by Portuguese colonists and African traditions, visible in its music, crafts, and cuisine. We especially enjoyed trying local dishes such as sururu (a mussel stew) and fresh tapioca pancakes from beachside vendors.
Recife, Brazil
Recife, often referred to as the “Venice of Brazil” due to its many rivers, bridges, and small islands, is a lively city rich in culture and history. It’s one of the oldest cities in the country and played a key role in Brazil’s colonial past.
The city’s historic neighborhood, Recife Antigo, is filled with colonial architecture, colorful buildings, and cultural landmarks such as the Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue—the first synagogue in the Americas.
Recife is also known for its vibrant Carnival, famous for the frevo dance and music that fill the streets during celebrations. The coastal area of Boa Viagem offers one of the most beautiful urban beaches in Brazil, lined with high-rise buildings and coconut palms.
We enjoyed strolling through the markets, sampling local seafood, and learning about Recife’s blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and African influences that shape its unique identity.
Fortaleza, Brazil
Fortaleza, a coastal city in northeastern Brazil, is known for its sunny climate, bustling beaches, and strong cultural roots. It’s a popular destination for both its natural beauty and its vibrant city life.
During our visit, we explored the Mercado Central, a sprawling market filled with local crafts, food, and textiles. Interestingly, this market building was once a prison—repurposed into a lively commercial hub. Just next door, we visited a beautiful and historic church, the Metropolitan Cathedral.
Fortaleza also has stunning beaches like Praia do Futuro and Iracema, along with a growing art and music scene that highlights the region’s rich traditions and modern creativity.
The Amazon Experience
According to legend, the first European exploration of the Amazon began in 1541. After several days on foot and having run out of food, the group built a raft and sent 50 men downstream to search for supplies. Led by Francisco de Orellana, the group never returned—swept away by the powerful current. Instead, they continued their journey, encountering both friendly and hostile native groups. One such encounter was with a tribe of fierce women warriors, who reminded them of the mythical Amazons of Greek legend. Whether true or not, the name stuck—and the river has been called the Amazon ever since.
We attended several seminars about the Amazon River and wanted to share some fascinating facts we learned:
The volume of fresh water discharged into the Atlantic Ocean each day is equal to what a city the size of New York would use in nine years.
At 7,000 km (about 4,350 miles), the Amazon is the longest river in the world and has more water than the Nile, Mississippi, and Yangtze combined.
The Amazon basin spans nine countries: Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana.
The river has over 1,100 tributaries—17 of which are more than 1,500 km (930 miles) long—making it the largest drainage system in the world by volume and area.
While traveling on the Amazon, the ship cannot take on fresh water due to heavy sediment, and all exterior lights are turned off at night to avoid attracting insects.
The Amazon is home to over 1,000 species of fish, including the famous pink river dolphins.
Santarém, Brazil
Located at the meeting point of the Tapajós and Amazon Rivers, Santarém is one of the most fascinating stops along our journey through the Amazon. The two rivers meet but do not mix immediately, creating a striking visual contrast known as the Meeting of the Waters—one side deep blue, the other murky brown.
Santarém is a gateway to natural wonders like the nearby village of Alter do Chão, famous for its white-sand river beaches, often called the “Caribbean of the Amazon.”
The area is also rich in indigenous history, rubber trade heritage, and local crafts. We enjoyed exploring the small town, visiting local markets, and taking in the lush Amazonian scenery that surrounded us at every turn.
Boca da Valeria, Brazil
Boca da Valeria is a tiny trading village tucked along the banks of the Amazon River. Home to about 100 residents known as caboclos—people of mixed Indigenous and Portuguese descent—it feels like a small slice of jungle life.
The village consists of just a handful of simple wooden houses, along with a school and a church, and it represents the way many small Amazonian communities live. Though small, it comes alive when a ship arrives. People from neighboring villages travel in to greet visitors, bringing with them local crafts, animals, and traditions.
Children often dress in traditional attire and offer photos with baby sloths, turtles, or parrots in exchange for a small donation. Locals also offer boat rides along the river—typically around $5 USD—which provide a deeper look into life along the Amazon and the incredible surrounding nature.
Manaus, Brazil
Manaus, originally a collection of small fishing villages established in 1669, was dramatically transformed during the Amazon rubber boom from 1879 to 1912. This period brought immense wealth, turning the city into a major center of the rubber trade.
Many iconic buildings were constructed during this time, including the famous pink and white Teatro Amazonas Opera House and the Customs House, which was prefabricated in Liverpool and shipped to Manaus. When the rubber boom collapsed, the city suffered economically, but it eventually reinvented itself.
Today, Manaus is a major industrial hub in the region. Known as the Manaus Free Trade Zone, it is home to over 600 companies involved in electronics, chemicals, soap production, shipbuilding, and petroleum refining—including 22 motorcycle factories.
We took a tour of the city that included a visit to the Teatro Amazonas, completed in 1896. Renowned for its near-perfect acoustics, the opera house continues to host performances ranging from solo guitar concerts to full ballets and philharmonic orchestras.
Manaus is also considered a world-class fishing destination, with more than 3,000 species of fish. Most fishing in the region follows a catch-and-release policy to help preserve this incredible biodiversity.
Parintins, Brazil
Located along the banks of the Amazon River, Parintins is a small town nestled in the heart of the rainforest that offers a glimpse into the rich culture and traditions of northern Brazil.
One of Parintins’ most iconic traditions is the Boi Bumbá show—a vibrant celebration of Amazonian folklore through music, dance, and storytelling. The performance tells the legendary tale of an ox’s death and resurrection, brought to life by around 60 performers dressed in elaborate, colorful costumes. Their captivating choreography and infectious energy are truly a sight to behold.
The show takes place at the local Convention Center, which was built specifically for this purpose in the early 1960s. While the main festival is held every June and involves the entire town, cruise visitors are treated to special performances whenever a ship is in port.
Parintins’ passion for culture and community spirit shines brightly through this unforgettable experience.
Alter do Chão, Brazil
Often called the “Caribbean of the Amazon,” Alter do Chão is a stunning riverside village with white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters. Located near Santarém, it’s a favorite getaway for locals and visitors.
During the dry season, sandbars emerge to create natural lagoons and beach islands, perfect for swimming and relaxing. It’s a relaxed atmosphere with lush surroundings, and with a beautiful waterfront.
Îles du Salut (Devil’s Islands), French Guiana
The Îles du Salut, or “Salvation Islands,” are a group of three islands off the coast of French Guiana. These include Île Royale, Île Saint-Joseph, and the infamous Île du Diable (Devil’s Island).
From 1852 to 1953, the islands served as the site of one of the most notorious French penal colonies. Île Royale operated as the administrative center, while Île Saint-Joseph housed solitary confinement prisoners, and Devil’s Island was reserved for political prisoners and the most feared inmates.
Among its most notable inmates was Alfred Dreyfus, a French military officer wrongfully convicted of treason in 1894, whose case became a national controversy and symbol of injustice.
Another was René Belbenoît, who chronicled his harrowing experiences in his memoir The Dry Guillotine.
Perhaps the most well-known was Henri Charrière, who made seven escape attempts before finally succeeding on his eighth. His memoir, Papillon, became a bestseller and was later adapted into two films—first in 1973 and again in 2017.
Today, visitors can explore the ruins of the prison buildings, walk the same paths once tread by prisoners, and reflect on a haunting chapter of colonial history surrounded by stunning ocean views and tropical greenery.
Pole to Pole Update 5
Day 45 through Day 56 – Uruguay, Argentina and Brazil
We’ve been enjoying traveling north along the South American coast, visiting Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil! The cities of Montevideo, Buenos Aires, Punta del Este, and Rio de Janeiro have been big highlights for us. The photos below, taken by us or other folks in our group, can’t really do many of these cities’ justice, but we hope they convey how exciting and beautiful they are.
We and many of our group have taken shore excursions either provided by Holland America or private tours arranged by other guests or personally curated prior to the trip. This is a wonderful way to get a complete understanding of the destination vs trying to do it on your own and hoping to be able to see everything that is to see in any destination.
Other ways to see a destination that we’ve seen folks employ is when available to use the “Hop on Hop off Bus” services; this is a great inexpensive way (usually about $35-$50 per person for a 24 hour pass) to get a tour of the most important sites. You’ll get a narrated tour with the opportunity to get off at any of the stops along the way and take your time exploring.
Some folks have also employed local taxi services. This is another inexpensive way to see the sights and many times these drivers know these destinations and are willing to share their knowledge. Usually, you can negotiate an upfront rate for a 2-, 3- or 4-hour ride to see the sites and ask to stop wherever you like while the taxi waits as you do some exploring.
After a few more stops along the coast we are looking forward to our visit to the destinations along the Amazon River. We look forward to sharing our experiences in our next update.
Port Stanley, Falkland Islands
The islands are best known for their marine life, rugged landscapes, and the 1982 Falklands War—a sovereignty dispute between the UK and Argentina. The US also backed the UK in the conflict.
Montevideo, Uruguay (Capital of Uruguay)
When visiting Montevideo, you’ll see historic buildings from the 1800s and the city’s Old Town, Ciudad Vieja.
Montevideo boasts the longest continuous sidewalk in the world, La Rambla, Centenario Stadium, the site of the first FIFA World Cup final in 1930—and a Carnival that lasts 40 days!
You’ll also see Teatro Solís—one of the oldest theaters in South America, which opened on August 25, 1856. A little-known fact: the very first “Western” movie—a black-and-white silent film—was shot at Teatro Solís in 1865.
Montevideo is also significant for being the departure point of the ill-fated Uruguay Airlines Flight 571, which crashed in the Andes Mountains in 1972. The flight carried 45 people, including the local rugby team, Old Christians Club, on their way to a match in Argentina. Two movies have been made about the crash and the incredible survival story: Alive and the recent The Society of the Snow.
Buenos Aires, Argentina
We took a tour of this beautiful city and were amazed by its rich history, stunning architecture, and iconic landmarks.
The city has three ports, 48 neighborhoods, and a population of over 3.5 million.
Large-scale immigration took place between 1850 and 1950, mostly from Europe. Interestingly, anyone who arrives can still receive citizenship, as stated in the Argentine Constitution of 1853—a policy that remains in effect today.
“Las Malvinas Argentinas” (The Falklands are Argentine) is a constant reminder of Argentina’s sovereignty claim over the islands, which it refers to as Las Malvinas.
We did a Culinary Tour of the city and thoroughly enjoyed the restaurants we visited—the food was excellent.
Modern city with both old and new buildings, in the riches
areas apartments can be as much as $8,000 US per sq meter.
English Tower, all the materials for the tower were brought from England
The famous Pink Place, showing the balcony, where Eva Peron delivered her famous speech
The restaurant we ate at during our culinary tour. Popular dish for one pictured!
Iguazu Falls
Iguazu Falls consists of two national parks: one in Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) and the other in Puerto Iguazú (Argentina). The parks receive over 1.6 million visitors per year!
Many are drawn to the attraction for the breathtaking waterfalls, but the parks also offer vast expanses of protected land: 252,982 hectares on the Argentina side and 185,262 hectares on the Brazilian side.
Punta del Este, Uruguay
Sometimes called the “Monaco of Uruguay” or the “St. Tropez of South America”, Punta del Este is known for its beautiful beaches, shopping areas, and upscale resort atmosphere. After completing a walking tour and lunch shore excursion, we couldn’t agree more!
The resort town is also known for the Puerto de Punta del Este, a lively area with restaurants, bars, and a large sea lion colony. The sea lions love to hang out near the fish market we visited—they are like “sea dogs,” eagerly waiting for scraps of fish.
Beautiful boardwalks along the gorgeous beach.
There is a colony of Sea Lions
Monumento al Ahogado is a popular landmark on one of the many beaches
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Rio de Janeiro was named by the original Portuguese explorers who arrived in January 1502. Believing they were sailing into a river (rather than a bay), they called it the River of January.
Both the Spanish and Portuguese fought over the area for many years, collaborating with indigenous inhabitants to harvest sugar cane, which was in great demand in Europe. Unfortunately, this also led to large-scale slave importation from Africa and the enslavement of many indigenous people. It is estimated that more than 5 million African slaves were brought to Brazil to work in sugar cane, coffee, and later, gold production.
The population remained relatively small until 1808, when the Portuguese royal family fled to Rio de Janeiro to escape Napoleon’s invasion of Portugal.
Between 10,000 and 15,000 people arrived on 14 ships, including the royal family, nobility, and the court’s high civil and military officials, bringing with them considerable wealth.
The influx of institutions and modernization transformed the city. By the time the royal family left in 1821, Rio’s population had grown to 130,000. By the early 1900s, Rio de Janeiro had become one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world.
Today, Rio de Janeiro has a population of over 12 million. Copacabana is one of the most densely populated areas and is famous for Carnival, while the Ipanema area is known for being trendy and stylish.
Armação dos Búzios, Brazil
Búzios is a resort town on an ocean peninsula east of Rio de Janeiro.
In 1964, Brigitte Bardot came to Búzios. She is credited with turning the small fishing village into the tourist destination it is today. Her name is on everything, from the Orla Bardot Boardwalk to an upscale beach restaurant, Madame Bardot.
Pole to Pole Update 4
Day 34 through Day 44 – Including our Antarctica Experience
Traveling through the Antarctic waters has been the highlight of the trip so far! As you will see from the pictures below (taken by us and others in our group), the weather couldn’t have been better.
It is difficult to convey the true beauty of Antarctica in just a few photos, and there are too many to share. We’ve selected only a few in the hope that they provide a glimpse of the breathtaking scenery.
The guest lectures and Captain Rens van Erten’s commentary added valuable context to the journey.
For those considering visiting Antarctica, you should know that the 2026 World Cruise, also aboard the Volendam, will include the HAL Antarctica Experience!
We have thoroughly enjoyed our days at sea and cannot emphasize enough the exceptional service we’ve received from the Volendam staff. We’ve been on many cruises with different cruise lines, but this staff ranks among the very best we’ve ever had the pleasure of cruising with.
In the coming days, we’ll make our way north along the South American coastline. We look forward to sharing our adventures in our next update.
Ushuaia
Known as the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia serves as the gateway to Antarctica. Its rugged landscape and rich history as a former penal colony make it a fascinating starting point for an Antarctic journey.
Crossing the Drake Passage
We navigated the Drake Passage between two storms—a stretch known for its rough waters and isolation. Despite the many ships that cross this route, the vastness of the sea kept them out of sight.
Start of the HAL Antarctic Experience (4 Days)
We sailed past the Palmer Research Station and learned about Antarctica’s critical role in climate research.
First Sight of Icebergs
As we entered Antarctic waters, we spotted our first iceberg—an awe-inspiring moment that set the tone for the days ahead. Icebergs can reach staggering heights; one we saw was 24 feet tall, with 90% hidden beneath the surface.
Wildlife Highlights
One of the most unforgettable aspects of visiting Antarctica is the wildlife. We encountered many whales, sea lions, seals, and dolphins, but the highlight for everyone was undoubtedly the penguins! We saw King, Emperor, and Chinstrap penguins.
Insights from the HAL Antarctica Experience
One of the best aspects of the HAL Antarctica Experience is the numerous seminars with experts covering all things Antarctica. Here are some of the key insights we gained:
Research in Antarctica
Antarctica hosts approximately 70 research stations from over 29 countries. The population fluctuates from around 1,000 year-round residents to as many as 5,000 during the summer months.
Key research stations include McMurdo (USA), Base Orcadas (Argentina), and Vostok (Russia).
The Antarctic Treaty
Antarctica is not owned by any one country. Instead, the Antarctic Treaty, signed in December 1959 and enforced on June 23, 1961, ensures that Antarctica remains a zone for peaceful research.
The treaty was initially signed by 12 countries actively engaged in Antarctic science during the International Geophysical Year (IGY) of 1957-58:
Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, France, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, the former Soviet Union, the United Kingdom, and the United States.
Antarctica’s Global Importance
Holding 70-90% of the world’s freshwater, Antarctica plays a crucial role in global climate balance. We learned about the challenges and importance of preserving this remote and fragile ecosystem.
Exclusive Pinnacle Grill Dinner:
Our exclusive Cruise and Travel Experts dinner in the Pinnacle Grill was enjoyed by all!
Chile – Pole to Pole Update 4
Day 33 – Punta Arenas, Chile
The past two weeks have been visiting Chile’s Stunning ports and cities, capped off by the breathtaking views as we cruised the Chilean Fjords! (See photos below)
To note, Chile has four main regions, each of which we have visited and that have distinct climates:
1.Norte Grande (Far North) – Home to the Atacama Desert, the driest place on Earth, with an arid climate and minimal rainfall.
2.Norte Chico (Near North) – A semi-arid region with more rainfall than the above region, Atacama but still dry, especially along the coast that we are cruising.
3.Central Chile – Which has a Mediterranean climate with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters; Chile’s most fertile and populated area
4.Southern Chile & Patagonia- A mix of rain forests, fjords, and glaciers, with cool, rainy weather year-around and harsher weather conditions in Patagonia.
Truly exceptional!
Onboard, we’ve enjoyed some great moments-watching the Super Bowl, celebrating Valentine’s Day, and attending our first-ever Glamping party under the starts.
In the coming days, we’ll explore Ushuaia, sail past Cape Horn and through the legendary Drake Passage, then experience the much-anticipated HAL Antarctic Experience
We’ve visited General San Martin (Pisco), Arica; San Antonio (Santiago) (Overnight); Isla Robinson Crusoe; Puerto Montt; Castro, Isla Chiloe; Puerto Chacabuco
Check out just some of the photos and highlights below from our adventures both onshore and aboard!
Isla Robinson Crusoe, Chile
Isla Robinson Crusoe, part of Chile’s Juan Fernandez Archipelago, was originally named Mas a Tierra. In 1966, Chile officially renamed it to honor the famous novel Robinson Crusoe.
The island is linked to the real-life story of Alexander Selkirk, a Scottish sailor who was maroon here from 1704 to 1709. His survival inspired the classic novel Robinson Crusoe, written by Daiel Defoe and first published in 1719!
It’s hard to believe that a true story of a sailor that disagreed with the Captain and was put off the ship in a row boat, survived five years on a south pacific island, is still read some 300 years later!
Coyhaique (coy-l-kay) it is one of the few cities in Cheile that receive regular icefall and snowfall during the fall and winter!
Virgin Waterfall– the largest in the area so named due to the semblance of a crow and veil formed as the water rushes over the rocks
Longest “Rope” Bridge in Chile
Casa Penaflor – Built by a German couple by hand and with materials from the area.
Cruising Chilean Fjords
Superbowl onboard
Valentine’s menu and Rose for all the ladies
Glamping by the pool
Day 16 Callao (Lima), Peru
We’ve visited some fascinating destinations in the first two weeks of our Pole to Pole adventure. Our journey began in Santo Domingo, followed by Santa Marta, Colombia; Puerto Limon (San Jose), Costa Rica; a transit through the Panama Canal to Fuerte Amador (Panama City); then Manta, Ecuador; and finally, Salaverry, Peru.
Below are some highlights captured in photos.
Onboard, we’ve been amazed by the number of guests who are seasoned world cruisers – some now on their second, third, or even fifth World Cruise!
One standout guest is Nita, pictured below with Kathleen. Nita holds the distinction of being a President’s Club member with Holland America, having spent more than 1,400 nights aboard HAL ships!
It’s also incredible to see how many guests recognize each other from past voyages, eagerly anticipating reunions on these Grand Cruises. Many have also formed lasting connections with the staff, greeting familiar faces from previous ships and sailings. It truly feels like one big family at sea.
Below are a few snapshots from our journey so far. Over the next couple of weeks, we’ll continue exploring South America’s stunning western coastline, with stops at several ports in Peru and Chile. Stay tuned!
Kathleen and her mother Nita. Nita has sailed more than 1400 nights aboard Holland America.
Friends Marg and Karen who both have been on many world cruises and counting!
With an average of $341K per ship, the Panama Canal generates over $4.99 Billion annually!
This revenue enables Panama to offer free education through high school, with university tuition averaging just $500 per semester.
Additionally, Panama boasts one of the lowest sales tax rates at 7% and an income tax of only 4% for its residents.
Picture one – a visit to a banana plantation with some of our group.
Picture two- The blue bags are placed over the banana bunch to protect the bananas from pesticides used and to create more humid conditions for faster ripening. Costa Rica has over 50 varieties of bananas but only export 2 types. It takes 9 to 12 months for a banana tree to grow and to produce fruit ready for export.
Picture three- our group learning about the many plants in Costa Rica and their diverse uses.
Picture four- A sloth we saw along the way! Interestingly, sloths only come down from their favorite cecropia tree once a week to do their “business”
Our visit to Manta, Ecuador, took us to the birthplace of the famous Panama Hat.
The story goes that during the construction of the Panama Canal, many Ecuadorians worked on the project, often wearing these finely woven hats. When the canal was completed, Panama’s leader presented a Panama Hat to President Woodrow Wilson, and from then on, the hats were mistakenly believed to originate from Panama rather than Ecuador.
These handcrafted hats can take anywhere from a few days to several months to produce, depending on the quality. Prices range from $40 to $5,000, with the finest versions requiring extraordinary craftmanship!
Personal Pictures:
Picture one- Our first Penguins of the trip!
Picture two- Notice that HAL has the Pole to Pole logo on the front of the ship
Picture three- our first formal night of the cruise.
2025 Holland America Line Pole to Pole Grand Voyage
Embarkation Day: January 25, 2025
